Jewellers
9 Tranquil Vale Blackheath London SE3
Tel/ Fax: 020 8852 0181
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Alexandrite
Alexandrite is one of the birthstones for June. It also is used to commemorate the 45th
and 55th wedding anniversaries. Alexandrite has been described as "an Emerald by day
and Ruby by night.
It is one of the few gemstones whose color changes radically under different lights: green,
blue-green or pale green in daylight to mauve, violet-red or purplish in incandescent light.
A member of the mineral group Chrysoberyl, Alexandrite's color change is due to the
differential absorption of different wavelengths of light by trace amounts of chromium. To
the layman this means that the red and green are always present but fighting for
dominance. If there is more red in the ambient light (i.e. candlelight or incandescent) the
reddish nature of Alexandrite prevails. Daylight and most fluorescent light has a greater
predominance of blue, hence an Alexandrite will appear bluish green. It is extremely rare
to find just the right trace amount of chromium in a natural stone to make this dramatic
color change possible, hence the high prices commanded by fine natural Alexandrite.
Stones over 5 carats are excruciatingly rare, especially
if the color change is good. The largest known Alexandrite is a gorgeous 66 carat cut
stone currently on exhibit at The Smithsonian Institution.
This gem variety was given the name Alexandrite as it was discovered in 1830
"reportedly" on the same day Czar Alexander II came of age. The first Alexandrites were
found in Emerald mines on the right bank of the Takovaya river in the Ural mountains
about 57 miles north-east of Sverdlovsk (Ekaterinburg). This location produced stones for
a few decades then ran dry and was closed. After that most "Alexs" on the market were
from Brazil and Ceylon. Due to recent political changes, some of the old mines have been
re-opened and found to produce! The Russian mining is limited to the summer months
because of the bitter weather and remote location. As Alexandrite was, at first, exclusive
to Russia and displayed their national military colors of green and red, it was long held in
very high esteem by Russian aristocrats and royalty.
It is important to note that Brazil produces excellent Alexandrite with a strong color change.
Although Alexandrite has a high hardness number of 8 ½ , some care must be taken to
avoid knocking it against hard surfaces. It should not be exposed to excessive heat (such
as a jewelers torch) as that could effect its color change.
Amethyst
The purple variety of the quartz mineral and is found all over the world. The name
amethyst comes from Greek and means ‘not drunken’. The myths attributed to amethyst
therefore include a great protection again over indulgence of alcohol. It is traditional for a
bishop’s ring to be set with an amethyst as it represents duty, devotion and high moral
standards of behaviour. It has symbolized peace, protection and tranquility. Some say it
will prevent baldness and improve the complexion, as well as protect from treason and
deceit. Because royalty has always adored the color purple, amethysts abound in the
ornaments of ancient Greeks and Egyptians, and in the British Crown Jewels.
Amethyst is the birthstone for February.
Aquamarine.
Another variety of the mineral beryl, as its name implies it finest colour is that of a clear
sea. Unlike emerald aquamarines are often found in large pure crystals. The colour is
due to trace amounts of ferric iron.
Aquamarine has an affinity to the planet Mars. It is said to ensure happiness, stimulate
the intellect and bestow prophetic powers. Aquamarine, a universal symbol of youth,
hope, and health. It is also the accepted anniversary gem for the 19th year of marriage.
(Prior to the fifteenth century it was thought to be the birthstone for those born in
October.) In ancient times, the stone was said to aid seafarers; thus it is an excellent gift
for sailors or one who takes frequent cruises! To dream of aquamarine signifies the
making of new friends; to wear aquamarine earrings brings love and affection.
Aquamarine was said to prevent seasickness, quicken the intellect and enhance courage.
Long used by royalty, Egyptian amulets of the XII Dynasty (circa 2000 BC) included
Aquamarines carved into the forms of animals.
Aquamarine comes principally from Brazil and Madagascar but other sources include
Africa, Siberia, USA, India, Burma and even the Mourn Mountains of Northern Ireland.
Aquamarine is the birthstone for March.
Citrine
Another form of quartz, this gemstone ranges from lemon yellow to honey brown in colour.
The name is derived from the word citrus and is related to its colour.
Emerald.
Emeralds are the principal gems from the mineral beryllium and aluminium. Large
emeralds are very rare, as are completely pure crystals of any size.
Emeralds have been known since 4000BC when they were being traded in Babylon and
most probably came from Egypt, from what legend has called Cleopatra’s Mines. The
origin of the name is obscure but comes, as do many others, from the writings of ancient
Romans such as Pliny, who referred to it as Smaragdus or the Greeks who referred to it
as Esmeralde.
The myths say that the emerald is the stone of Venue, the reproductive force of nature. It
is also said to aid poor sight and memory and reveal infidelity between lovers.
Emeralds are found in Columbia, Brazil, Siberia, Zimbabwe and the Indian sub continent.
Emerald is the birthstone for May.
Garnet.
Garnets range in colour from deep red to bright green depending on the trace elements
contained within the stones, each of the distinct variations has its own name. Almandine
has a hint of purple in the deep red colour, which is caused by the mix of aluminium and
iron within its composition. Pyrope garnets, most often seen in Victorian jewellery, have
an orange tint caused by magnesium. Pyrope comes from the Latin for pomegranite.
Rhodolite is a purple version of the stone. Anadrite garnet has the famous bright green
Dematroid structure and comes mainly from Russia. Grossular is a bright orange colour
and bright green garnet are the Tsavorite from Kenya or Uvarovite from Russia.
Spessartine garnet range from orange to pink.
The myths surrounding garnets are some of the oldest. Records exist of ancient Egyptian
calling them the symbol of life, said to protect against poison and plague.
Garnet is the birthstone for January.
Iolite
Iolite is a relatively plentiful stone offering an excellent substitute to the more expensive
blue Sapphire. It is a trichroic (three-colored) gemstone, which means it shows different
colors when viewed from different directions -- usually deep blue, violet blue, and light
gray. Since the blue color is normally oriented to be viewed from the table, most people
consider Iolites to be blue.
The Vikings found that due to its ability to polarize light, looking through a thin slice of
Iolite cancels out most haze and clouds, making the sky appear clearer. This enabled
them to navigate safely in the rain. Iolites naturally occur almost exclusively in granite,
and have been frequently found in the 1-10 carat range. Also referred to as "Water
Sapphire," the name Iolite is from Greek ios color(violet) + lithos (stone).
Jade
Jade refers to two chemically different stones: jadeite, a silicate of sodium and aluminum,
and nephrite, a silicate of calcium and magnesium. Although different, they share many
common characteristics. In Europe, the technical characteristics of the two varieties were
first published by Damour in 1863; the Chinese were aware of the differences long before.
Jadeite, the rarest and most valuable form of jade, is also known as 'Burmese Jade',
(after its traditional and still most important source). It has been in wide use only since the
mid-18th century, and today is considered the 'precious' form of jade. Most 'fine jewelry'
items of jade consist of jadeite. Jadeite exhibits a wide palette of sometimes vibrant
colors, often with translucence. Green is the most valuable color; in particular, a
translucent emerald-green is the most prized of all, and is sometimes called 'Imperial
Green'. Jadeite is also available in lavender, red, yellow, black and white.
Nephrite, the traditional form of jade, has been used for over 5000 years by many
different cultures throughout the world. It is the Chinese, however, that raised the craft of
jade carving to an art, and who appreciated it on the deepest levels; the rich mix of
mythology and religion in China seemed to find it's highest expression in the virtues of
jade. Nephrite colors are subdued, and range from grey to brown to blue-green to black.
Translucence is rare. The highest quality comes from Siberia, and sometimes New
Zealand or Australia. Taiwan has good nephrite, but the giant of all producers today is
British Columbia.
Lapis
Lapis is sometimes used as an alternative December birthstone. Lapis is actually a rock
made up of several different minerals, usually lazurite, hauyne, sodalite and nosean, all
members of the sodalite group of minerals. Also present are calcite and pyrite in varying
percentages. The finest Lapis is considered to be a solid, deep blue with minimal white
calcite spots and an attractive sprinkling of golden pyrite. Lapis derives it's name from the
Persian word lazhward meaning blue. In ancient times, it was called sapphirus , a name
which is now applied to our Sapphire. Powdered Lapis is the basis for the pigment
ultramarine, the deep blue color essential to an artist's palette. The production of
synthetic ultramarine has fortunately alleviated the need to grind up natural Lapis Lazuli.
Lapis has been highly prized as an ornamental stone for over 6000 years. The Lapis
mines high above the Kokeha Valley in northeastern Afghanistan were ancient even when
visited by Marco Polo in 1271! Perhaps because deep blue Lapis with its flakes of golden
Pyrite resembles an evening sky dotted with sparkling stars, it was long regarded as a
cure for melancholy (the "blues"), and as an amulet against the spirits of darkness. The
cultures of ancient Mesopotamia traded Lapis far and wide, regarding it at least as highly
as gold. The Egyptians were equally as fond of the stone and nobles such as King
Tutankhamen were interred with great stores of Lapis goods.
Opal
Opal whose brilliance and vibrant colors resemble the colors of the fall, is certainly
appropriate as a birthstone for October, as well as the accepted anniversary gemstone
for the 14th year of marriage. The modern name Opal is derived from three ancient
sources; the Sanskrit upala , meaning precious stone, the Latin opalus and from the
Greek opallios meaning "to see a color change."
The well-known Roman naturalist Pliny described opal as "made up of the glories of the
most precious gems... the gentler fire of the ruby, the rich purple of the amethyst, the sea-
green of the emerald, glittering together..." Until recently, no stone has gotten so much
"bad publicity" for bringing bad luck as the Opal. Negativity surrounded the stone
because of the ease with which the stone could crack, and if given as a lucky or love
stone, the splitting was usually taken as a sign of bad luck. Sir Walter Scott fueled its
unlucky reputation with his 1800 novel, "Anne of Geierstein," in which the doomed
heroine wore an Opal in her hair.
Today, with the understanding of Opal's water content, gem suppliers and miners reject
those Opals that tend to crack. Opal has symbolized hope, innocence and purity through
the ages. In the Middle Ages, young, fair-haired girls wore opals in their hair to protect its
lovely blond color. Medieval writers believed opal could render its wearer invisible when
the need arose. It was also said to have a beneficial effect on eyesight. It was thought to
banish evil spirits and favor children, the theater, amusements, friendships and feelings.
When we try to describe the opal, we realize how insufficient the English language is. It is
unique among the gems, displaying an array of very brilliant miniature rainbow effects, all
mixed up together. Its most outstanding characteristic is this unusual, intense display of
many colors flashing out like mini-rainbows called "play of color". This effect is created by
opal's formation process, which is very different from that of other gems. Opal is silicon
oxide containing variable amounts of water. The color flashes come from natural hydrated
silica spheres that create light interference. The water content in an Opal can be
anywhere from 1-21 though usually between 3-13. The arrangement of the spheres,
which vary in size and pattern, is responsible for the different colors seen. Opal, when not
transparent, is usually cut flat or in cabochon, since there is no additional brilliance to be
captured by a good faceting job. Color is everything. The more brilliant the color, the
more valuable the gem. It is probably more true of opal than any other stone, that the
more beautiful the stone and its color, the more it will cost. White opal has a white or light
body color with flashes of many colors. Black opal has a black, dark blue, dark green or
gray body color with vivid flashes of color such as red, pink and bright green.
Pearl
Pearl is the birthstone for the month of June. It is also the accepted anniversary
gemstone for the 3rd and 30th years of marriage. Pearls have been recognized as the
emblem of modesty, chastity and purity. They have come to symbolize a happy marriage.
A pearl is the product of an oyster's defense mechanism. When a foreign irritant is
introduced either by man (cultured) or naturally, the oyster immediately surrounds it with
layers of a substance called nacre. This forms the exquisite gemstone know as pearl.
Pearls come in a wide range of colors and overtones. They should be relatively free from
skin blemishes. The more perfectly round the shape the better. The higher the luster, or
"orient", the more valuable the specimen usually is. And usually the larger the pearl, the
greater it’s value.
Besides the popular round shape, there are stylish mabe (large hemispherical,
assembled, cultured pearls) which usually form against the inner shell wall of the oyster,
fresh water (elongated in interesting shapes and colors), and South Sea (large cultured
pearls 10mm and up from Australia's and Indonesia's waters), to name a few.
Peridot.
This lime green gem has been known for over 3,500 years. It originally came from an
island in the Red Sea now called ‘The Island of St John’.
The Crusaders brought peridot to Europe in the Middle Ages then the source was lost
until the 1900’s.
Modern mine locations include China, Burma, Brazil and the USA.
Ruby
This is the second major variety of the mineral Corundum, it name deriving from the Latin
word rubinus, simply meaning red. The finest richest red colours generally originate from
Burma.
The myths related to ruby are all the more interesting, probably because of its affinity to
the colour of blood. These myths generally relate to heath and longevity. The Hindu
name for ruby is Ratnaraj king of gemstones. They were though to have an internal flame
that could boil water and also had a strong religious significance – ‘The Blood of the
Deity’ – and a strong association with the sun. Victorians thought that they symbolised
divine love and brought forth loyalty. The highest quality rubies were said to protect their
owners from all kinds of misfortune. A fine ruby assured the owner he would live in
harmony with his neighbors. It would protect his stature in life, his home and land. Its
protective powers were intensified when set in jewelry, and worn on the left side.
Ruby is the birthstone of July.
Sapphire
Traditionally the richest blue variety has been known as the classic. The word sapphire
comes from the Latin word sapphirus, which just means blue. More recently yellow and
pink stones have also become popular.
Sapphire, which have been known for many centuries, first came to Europe from the
Indian sub continent. However, miners working recently in the ancient gem mines of
Burma have discovers artefacts to show that the people of the Stone and Bronze Age had
been there before them.
There are few myths and superstitions attached to sapphires, but Star Sapphires are
thought to be the stones of destiny and in the middle ages these stones had religious
significance and are associated with the planets Jupiter and Venue.
The best ‘cornflower blue’ colour comes from Sri Lanka but superb specimens are also
found in Kashmir, and the USA. Other sources include Burma, Thailand, Cambodia,
Australia and Africa. Sapphire is a variety of the mineral Corundum.
Sapphire is the birthstone for September.
Tanzanite.
This is a comparatively new gem to be set in to jewellery, until 1967 the only varieties of
the mineral Zoisite were not very attractive. As the name implies this stone was
discovered in Tanzania and is bright blue with a hint of purple.
Topaz
Topaz is the accepted birthstone for November. Blue topaz is the accepted anniversary
gemstone for the 4th year; Imperial topaz for the 23rd year of marriage. Citrine is often
used an alternative to topaz because it appears in many of the same colors as topaz.
Unlike topaz, citrine is readily available and inexpensive even in large sizes. In ancient
times just about any stone was likely to be called a Topaz. It is thought that the word
Topaz is either derived from the Sanskrit word tapas meaning fire or topazioz the Greek
word meaning to guess. It has been considered as a symbol of love and affection. The
lore, magic and romance of topaz goes back many thousands of years. It holds the
distinction of being the gemstone with the widest range of curative powers. The Greeks
felt it gave them strength. In addition, it supposedly cooled tempers, restored sanity,
cured asthma, relieved insomnia and even warded off sudden death. Topaz is said to
make its wearer invisible in time of emergency. It proved the loyalty of associates by
changing color in the presence of poison.
The true topaz is infrequently seen in jewelry stores. Unfortunately, most people know
only the quartz (citrine) topaz, or glass. In the past almost any yellow stone was called
topaz. Topaz occurs not only in the transparent yellow, yellow brown, orangy brown, and
pinkish brown colors most popularly associated with it, but also in a very light to medium
red (now found naturally in fair supply, although many are produced through heat
treatment), very light to light blue (also often the result of treatment, although it does
occur naturally on a fairly wide scale), very light green, light greenish yellow, violet, and
colorless. Orange-red "Imperial" topaz and pink colors are rare and most valuable. Topaz
is a hard, brilliant stone with a fine color range, but it is much more rare and much more
expensive than the stones commonly substituted for topaz. Blue topaz has become very
popular in recent years. Most of it has been heat treated and/or irradiated to "cure" the
color. It closely resembles the finest aquamarine (which is very expensive today) and
offers a very attractive, and much more affordable alternative. Silver Topaz is an eye-
clean, colorless, and brilliantly sparkling stone. With its very affordable price, it offers an
inexpensive alternative to the Diamond or white Sapphire. Sky Blue Topaz, with its light to
medium sky blue coloring, has proven to be an excellent substitute for the more
expensive Aquamarine. London Blue Topaz is the darkest of the blue Topazes and
makes an excellent substitute for the more costly blue Sapphire. Super Blue Topaz is a
trade name referring to an intense vibrant blue Topaz. It is also known as Swiss Blue and
Max Blue.
Tourmaline
This family of gems has one of the largest ranges of colour, all varieties are simply called
tourmaline with the colour prefix except for red which is called Rubilite.
The Sinhalese word turmali probably provided the name tourmaline as Sri Lanka was an
early source of the gem. Today Brazil provides many colours. Russia, Burma,
Madagascar and parts of Africa are also sources for this gem.
Turquoise
Turquoise is the accepted birthstone for December and is the accepted anniversary
gemstone for the 11th year of marriage. Turquoise is formed by the action of percolating
groundwater in aluminous rocks where copper is present, as in the vicinity of copper
deposits. The name means "Turkish stone" because the trade route that brought it to
Europe used to come via Turkey. Some say that in the thirteenth century, Turquoise was
named in the mistaken belief that it came from Turkey. Others say that the name comes
from the Persian word for Turquoise, firouze, since Persia has been a major source of
this gemstone for thousands of years. In any case, the blue of this gemstone is so vivid
and distinct that it has given its name to the color! The best qualities are found in
northeast Iran (Persian turquoise). However, the United States southwest is now the world
leader in production.
Turquoise has been a treasured gemstone around the world for thousands of years. It
was used for beads by the Egyptians as early as 5500 BC. The deposits in Sinai were
already worked out by 4,000 BC. In many cultures, Turquoise is regarded as a harbinger
of good fortune, success and health. Aztecs and Egyptians considered it a symbol of
prosperity. In India, one was to wear a Turquoise on the little finger and look at the gem
after seeing the new moon to gain great wealth. According to American Indians, the stone
brought together the spirits of sea and sky to bless warriors and hunters; a Turquoise
arrowhead assured accurate aim. A Navajo belief is that a piece of Turquoise cast into a
river will cause rainfall. Ancient doctors exploited the stone's medicinal potential by
making it into paste to treat ailments of the hip. The Egyptians also mounted Turquoise in
Silver to treat eyes suffering from cataracts.
From the thirteenth century comes the belief that Turquoise possessed the power to
protect the wearer from injury by falling, especially from horseback; later, this was
extended to cover falls from buildings or over a precipice. Turks often attached Turquoise
to the bridles of their horses believing that it rendered the horse more sure-footed. As the
horse was often regarded as a symbol of the sun in its rapid course through the heavens,
the sky-blue color of Turquoise may have caused it to be associated in some way with the
horse. During the 16th century, turquoise was used as currency, by the Southwest
Indians. They believed the gemstone could bring spoils to the warrior, animals to the
hunter, and happiness and good fortune to all. In Europe, Turquoise seems to have been
worn almost exclusively by men at the beginning of the 17th century and was so highly
regarded by them that no man considered his hand to be well adorned unless he wore a
fine Turquoise.
At that time the stone was used for jewelry, amulets and in the preparation of cosmetics.
